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There’s a reason Costa Rica’s slogan in “pura vida.” The whole country is green – as in the color of its jungles and rain forests and as in eco-friendly. Wildlife and habitats are carefully preserved as eco-tourism leads the way in revenue production, surpassing the long-time leading product, coffee. Beyond monetary inducements, however, is an underlying respect for nature. People live much closer to it than most Americans are accustomed to these days. It’s not that technological conveniences aren’t available, but they’re not the focus of daily life. It’s hard to imagine a Tico sitting in an office cube in front of a computer all day, especially after you’ve seen farmers sowing seeds by hand in small fields ploughed in the narrow strip of land between the road and the fenced pastures.
Even a short visit can make the most hardened executive look at life on this blue planet with a different sense of  priorities. The roads are often narrow, nearly always twisting through mountains or rocky coastline and typically in rough condition. Some roads are paved, but as often as not, the roads are rock-covered packed dirt, with the not infrequent river fording included. Don’t bother asking how many miles from one place to another; ask how much time. Even short distances can take hours in a 4WD, between dodging pot holes, ruts and sleeping dogs and being stuck behind the locals, who, contrary to what most guidebooks say, drive much more slowly than tourists in rental vehicles because they need to preserve their vehicles by lessening road damage.
Traffic isn’t the only thing that moves slowly; the general pace of life is slower. Clothes are line-dried. Banking can take all day. Meals become events because restaurant service is notoriously slow. Words of advice from an American ex-pat with 15 years of experience living in Costa Rica: adjust. The more you push, the slower they’ll go.
It’s a good lesson in many respects: accept and adjust. Things are different there. Just as the relationship between human and nature is different, so, too, is the relationship between humans. Favors come with an expected – and demanded and even sometimes negotiated – reward, but questions asked respectfully are usually answered in kind. Respect is critical: of people and customs, of resources and supplies. Solar and wind power are used heavily and water sparsely. In most places, “the papers” are not thrown into the toilet.
The food is fresh, with open-air fruit stalls at most intersections and in the local markets. Eggs aren’t even refrigerated in the markets; they’re used fresh. Most towns lure tourists with pizza places, but the Tico diet staple is rice and beans, spiced up with some tasty salsas like nothing you’ll find in the average American supermarket. Although known as “cattle country,” chicken seems to predominate as the common meat dish, served in a number of ways. But it’s the abundance of fresh fruit that marks the tropical country. Field after field of papaya, banana, coconut strawberry, pineapple and other fruits provide ample supplies of sweet nourishment.
Green card
 Costa Rica is one big tropical garden where exotic plants grow everywhere and bloom profusely. In addition to fields of fruit, flowers are also popular. Not just an Englishman’s hobby, gardening and landscaping are evident in even the poorest areas, softening the hard edges of tin roofed huts and lending a little pride in their homes.
The overwhelming color, practically undisturbed except for pockets of red hibiscus, pink gingers and orange heliconias or glimpses of misty blue waves crashing on a black volcanic beach, is a multi-toned green. Gingers, brugmansia, plumeria, ylang-ylang, heliconia, ixora, jasmine and hibiscus dot the landscape and waft gentle fragrance through the air. But greenery dominates, from the banana and papaya fields to the palms, bromeliads, vines and assortment of trees, shrubs and undergrowth that cover the rugged mountainsides, fed by waterfalls and streams. 
All those postcards you’ve seen of Costa Rican waterfalls aren’t mere marketing: the tropical country is laced with picturesque mountain streams roaring over steep cliffs, crashing water down hundreds of feet in a thunderous tumult of breathtaking beauty. Mist dances off the giant falls, adding to the humid haze that lends a romantic aura to palm-lined beaches and dense jungle hillsides.
Rivers rush to the sea, competing with Pacific waves rippling and slamming toward the land. The water is surprisingly warm, almost bathwater tepid, but don’t be lulled into a false sense of security: many beaches have riptides as strong as the volcanic rocks hiding under the water’s surface. Strong waves make surfing popular, but decrease the opportunities for safe swimming and pleasant snorkeling. Beware when a dazzling, deserted beach tempts you; there’s usually a reason no one’s swimming. Consult a guide book to locate safe swimming beaches, or follow the crowds. If you crave the solitude, confine it to a romantic stroll. Many of Costa Rica’s beaches make for better viewing than anything else.
Wild kingdom
Surprisingly safer than the shoreline is the wildlife. It’s always wise to be cautious, but many of the native animals are so accustomed to tourists, they let humans approach to very close quarters. Some, like the coatimundi, beg for food. The national reserves, however, discourage visitors from feeding the animals, no matter how cute and friendly they appear. 
It’s important to be safe and respectful, but with precaution, courtesy and common sense, it’s possible to witness some amazing creatures in their native habitats. Howler monkeys are more often heard than seen, but some days you can get lucky. More easily spotted are the capuchin monkeys, which Ticos call white-face monkeys. Sloths are sometimes difficult to spot, simply because they move so slowly, but a good eye is often rewarded.
Furry animals aren’t the only ones frequently encountered. Lizards are everywhere, from tiny chameleons that scamper the forest grounds at your feet to large iguanas stoically soaking up the sun from the treetops. Snakes are also common, often seen slithering through the jungle on the ground and in the trees. Frogs come in all colors, from the red and blue “blue jean” frog to the national frog with red eyes. Beware: like snakes, some of these frogs are poisonous and to be viewed but not handled.
 Costa Rica is home to 130 species of birds, many of which are brightly colored and talkative. Toucans, “love birds,” macaws and dozens of varieties of hummers are just a few of the birds that can be seen throughout the country. What’s exciting is spotting unfamiliar birds of a greenish yellow, a pale blue, a bright blue with black or a black with brilliant red.
From the heights
Canopy tours and guided jungle tours (be sure your guide carries his telescope) can assist bird watchers, and there are certainly no shortage of either. In the northern part of the country, the Arenal volcano offers opportunities for on-high looking. Zipline canopy tours are popular, but are really more for the adventure than the view because you’re moving too quickly to see much more than a panoramic vista until you’re on the platform waiting for the rest of your group. Nevertheless, they are a thrilling way to experience the world.
The hanging bridges let you set the pace of discovery. Winding through several acres just above Lake Arenal, the paths and bridges provide views of waterfalls, jungle and even the volcano itself, on a clear day. The Arenal volcano hovers in seclusion on the edge of a rain forest and a cloud forest, and catching sight of its molten lava and belching steam can be an unfulfilled quest. However, with several hotsprings in the area, along with dozens of tours ranging from river rafting to horseback riding to caving expeditions, the quixotic trek can be fun, whatever the atmospheric conditions. La Fortuna, the mountaintop town facing the Arenal volcano, is a quaint place to shop, have lunch or just admire the manicured town square while waiting for the clouds to blow off.
Don’t consider the trip a bust if the volcano never “comes out.” There are awe-inspiring vistas at every turn, both coastal and inland. All you have to do is get out there, respect nature and experience la pura vida. It’s an experience you’ll never forget.
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