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In contrast to the dramatic peaks of the high islands such as Tahiti, Moorea and Bora Bora, the low islands of the Tuamotus exhibit equally dramatic rings of coral reef surrounding a central lagoon, called atolls. Colors seem brighter here and the water clearer, with 100 to 150 foot visibility.
We flew about an hour northwest of Tahiti to the Tuamotu Archipelago, where lies the world's largest collection of coral atolls. The South Pacific’s largest (and the world’s second largest) is Rangiroa, with its immense 42-mile long, 16-mile wide turquoise lagoon. Ra'iroa gets its name "huge sky" from its great length. It's calm lagoon is world-famous for the abundance and variety of marine life, attracting professional and amateur divers from around the world.
This large coral reef is open by two passes: Tiputa and Avatoru, named after the two small villages on the atoll. The population of fewer than 2,000 nearly all live on the main motu, where the airport is located. Civilization seems a million miles away when you reach the main hotel, Kia Ora Village. Facing Rangiroa's breath-taking lagoon, the hotel's thatched-roof bungalows are scattered amongst a coconut grove along a fine stretch of deserted sandy beach, providing quiet seclusion. A comfortable, cozy village atmosphere supplies a casual backdrop for lazy afternoons “at home” with a good book and a cool drink, or day trips by boat to the Blue Lagoon or Pink Beach for frolicking and shell collecting.
For the more adventurous, the highlight of a stay at the Kia Ora has to be "shooting the pass" at Tiputa. Whether done by glass bottom boat or as a drift dive with snorkeling or scuba equipment, the experience of watching hundreds of fish and sharks being swept along in the incoming current is one not to be missed and is never forgotten.
Famous around the world for unsurpassed snorkeling and scuba diving, Tiputa Pass between open ocean and deep lagoon is world-renown as one of the most challenging drift dives on the planet. Twice daily the tides carry water to and from the lagoon through the pass, creating strong, steady 5-knot currents that offer an exhilarating dive. This current sweeps divers and fish along on a thrill ride.
A diver's nirvana, this huge, natural aquarium is unsurpassed as the clearest water in the world, and harbors an extraordinary array of marine life. The famed devil fish, which can grow to 10 feet in length, is just one in a remarkable collection of big fish found in the pass. Several different species of shark (hammerheads, nurse, tiger, silk, lemon, gray, blacktip, whitetip and silvertip) visit the place on a regular basis. It's not unusual for more than 100 sharks to congregate. Big hammerhead sharks can be seen in the pass from December to March. Moreover, rays (spotted eagle rays or mantas) are frequent, especially from July to October. Sometimes dolphins, tuna, sailfish and marlin can be viewed. “Divers all over the world know that if you want to see big fish, Rangiroa is the place,” says a dive instructor for the Raie Manta Club, the largest of the three dive clubs on Rangiroa.
The big fish aren’t the only attraction. Numerous species of fish with extraordinary shapes and colors can be observed: surgeon fish, mullet, pompano, grouper, puffer fish, trumpet fish, moray eels and turtles. Also making their home in Rangiroa's waters are colorful damsel, angel fish, butterfly fish, parrot fish, the Napoleon fish - so named because of the tricolor peak on its head – and clown and goat fish.
First dives and diving lessons take place inside the lagoon, in the "aquarium" area, full of fishes and colors. Certified diving takes place along the passes, according to the tide, always drifting along coral walls or through the passes. Night dives, private dives and lessons are available.
Anxious to see the millions of fish congregating in the pass, my husband and I parked our three-wheeled “fun car” for the day and walked to the end of the dock at Kia Ora. After a brief wait under a scorching sun, our French boat driver and his Italian wife appeared. We raced through buffeting waves on the open sea in search of dolphins before slowing to begin our dive. Both of us are experienced snorkelers, but I was a bit intimidated by the fearsome reputation of the Pass, and the choppiness of the waves.
With the precision of perfectly choreographed maneuvers, everyone jumped from the boat at once. Grabbing the hand of our guide and putting our masks in the water, a hidden world revealed itself to us, making us forget we were under the control of a strong current in the Pacific Ocean. Kicking to keep up with our experienced guide, we were absorbed in underwater sightseeing. Obliging us novices, the experienced Italian diver frequently called out a muffled “Feeeesh!” through her breathing apparatus and pointed in the direction of one spectacular find after another. She relinquished our hands long enough for photos. She even took a few herself when we spotted a particularly spectacular eagle ray swimming directly toward us. Unaware of being carried along by the strong current, we were mesmerized by the colorful display. Imagine a group of marlin circling you, each one more than seven feet long. Who’s watching whom?
We made two jumps, interspersed on the boat by fresh coconut and excited chatter about our sightings. Once safely back on dry land, I noticed a certain swagger and sense of pride that we had snorkeled “the Pass,” that so-called dangerous drift diving phenomenon responsible for earning Rangiroa its place in the pantheon of ultimate aquatic experiences.
No self-respecting, thrill-seeking diver or snorkeler should miss this world treasure.
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