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Vive Mexico!
By Lori Lovely
Mexico is a vibrant, exciting year-round destination that is easily – and economically – accessible from Indy. The diverse country means many things to different people, offering countless flavors to adventure-hungry travelers. Thanks to Hollywood, the thought of Mexico typically conjures images of the hot, arid desert common in central Mexico. However, the Yucatan offers an entirely different climate and culture. The humid peninsula guards the secret of the Maya people, shrouded in mystery just as surely as some of the ruins are still obscured by the ever-encroaching jungle.
Countless surprises wait to be discovered in the alluring Yucatan. Bypass the spring break atmosphere of Cancun and take the trek south to Tulum. The small Mayan pueblo of Tulum in the state of Quintana Roo has become a second home for my husband Chris and me. We pop down there every chance we get and hope one day to make it our permanent residence.
 Although this little corner of the Yucatan at the southern tip of the “Riviera Maya” is rapidly developing, it remains quaint and inviting, with a local population as warm and inviting as the weather. Visitors like us from around the world are drawn to its jungle climate, turquoise waters, Maya ruins and eco-adventure opportunities. My friends get tired of hearing me rave about Tulum, but go see for yourself. Once you visit, I think you’ll be captivated too.
Personal recommendations:
Getting there. Fly into the Cancun airport. Some resorts provide buses, or you can hire a taxi. However, it can get pricey. We rent a vehicle because we like to explore the region. If you choose that option, it’s best to book ahead and I strongly recommend a 4WD. Highway 307 is a well maintained dual-carriageway most of the way to Tulum, but if you go anywhere else, the roads can get extremely rough. Nevertheless, driving is an experience not to be missed. Drivers are so polite, they pull onto the shoulder to let you pass, even in the face of oncoming traffic, which usually pulls aside also. Just be prepared to return the courtesy.
Where to stay. If you’re looking for a large, all-inclusive resort, there are several brand new ones just south of Playa. But if you prefer a quieter, more rustic eco-resort, drive all the way to Tulum. There are places to stay in the pueblo, but I advise staying closer to the beach for the breeze, the view, the privacy and the peace and quiet. The hotel zone lies about a mile off the 307 on a bumpy little road that winds along the coast. There are a number of eco-resorts for all budgets, most nestled in a thick strip of jungle between the road and the beach that can’t be seen from the road.
Our favorite is Cabañas Copal Hotel. Be aware that there is no electricity there. In fact, there is little electricity throughout Tulum because it’s a turtle nesting area. Lodging options range from sand-floor rooms with shared facilities to individual cabañas with mosquito-netted kingsize bed and private bath. The extra cost of a seaview cabaña is worth it; without air conditioning, you’ll value the breeze. For a little more money and a seven-night minimum stay, la casita is by far the best room. Perched high atop a rocky cliff, it has a tremendous view of the beach and the sea. It’s also the largest cabañ a, with the only porch that includes chairs, hammocks and a swing. The talavera tile bathtub is a treat.
Other treats include their holistic spa services: massage, Temazcal sweat lodge, flotation chamber, yoga classes and more. In addition, an onsite restaurant serves fresh seafood and several vegetarian dishes. For more information, go to http://www.cabanascopal.com.
Just next door, and under the same management, is Azulik, a cluster of 15 villas perched on the cliff overlooking the Caribbean Sea. Constructed of local hardwoods, each villa features an indoor tree trunk tub and deck with outdoor soaking tub. Like Cabañas Copal, this is a clothing-optional resort, but it’s for adults only. Both resorts are gay-friendly.
For five-night stays from June 1 – July 31, Azulik will pay your carbon offset for a year. Carbonfund.org is a U.S.-based non-profit that supports reforestation projects. For more information, go to http://www.azulik.com.
Where to eat.
Zamas’ Que Fresco! is a must. Within walking distance of Azulik and Cabañas Copal, it’s a seaside Mexican restaurant (and resort) that has become a staple for regular visitors to the area. Known for its seafood, its wood-fired pizza, Mexican and vegetarian dishes are the absolute best in the area. Service is typically slow, but the view from the open-air, sand-floor eatery encourages you to slow down and enjoy life.
For a change of pace, La Vita é Bella is a fantastic Italian restaurant (and resort) north of Cabañas Copal. Another seaside, open-air, sand-floor restaurant, its Italian chef prepares delicious dishes.
There are dozens of restaurants in Tulum Pueblo, but the choices are typically heavier, more standard dishes than the creative eco-resort menus offer. Paris de Noche, like all the restaurants in town, features sidewalk seating just like a Parisian café, but its menu features more tortillas than baguette.
What to see.
The Maya ruins at Tulum are breathtaking. Despite guidebook criticism about their size, age and condition, they are beautifully inspiring and set against a turquoise backdrop of incredible sea view. The back way is within walking distance, but you’ll miss the area’s best flea market that sits closer to the 307.
Other ruins worth visiting include Coba, about an hour’s drive inland from Tulum. It features a steep 12-story-tall pyramid (tallest in the Yucatan) that offers a great panoramic view above the canopy and other structures from the Classic period. Muyil is a short drive south of Tulum. This quiet, seldom-visited site features several impressive structures and a boardwalk to the Laguna Muyil. Xel-ha is a small group of Late Post-Classic structures north of Tulum. Although the buildings are not in good shape, the beautiful blue cenote and the proximity to Xel-ha Nature Park make it a worthwhile stop. Chichen Itza is a day trip by car or pre-arranged tour. Heavily visited, this impressive archeological site is rated as one of the most important in Maya culture.
What to do.
Xel-ha Lagoon eco-park is a great place to snorkel, tube a tropical river, jump from a rope swing in the cenote or a cliff into the river, balance a rope crossing, traverse a floating bridge at the sea entrance or stay on dry land by hiking the nature trails. You can also get close to a lot of animals. See the baby turtles at the turtle camp, observe a wide variety of birds or swim with dolphins .
X-caret Eco Park has many of the same features: dolphin swim, turtle hatchery, protected beach and uncaged macaws and parrots. It feels a bit more like a botanical garden with its orchid greenhouse, jaguar island, ruins, coral reef aquarium and evening shows. Be sure to float down the underground river.
There are many cenotes in the area. Hidden Worlds Cenote Park near Xel-ha offers scheduled dive and snorkel tours of underground rivers, with the new Skycycle Tour canopy tour to and from the cenotes. Dos Ojos, for certified open water divers, is particularly spectacular.
All the beaches are public beaches. The water is clear, warm and beautiful. Because the Yucatan is on the world’s second-largest barrier reef, there’s plenty of snorkeling and scuba diving, with tours easily arranged. There are several golf courses in the area, horseback riding, caves, sailing and boat tours of the Sian Kaan Biosphere lakes.
The Sian Kaan Biosphere Reserve is a 1.3 million acre wilderness with miles of remote, uninhabited beachfront. The Road to Punta Allen passes through the Reserve, threading the needle between sea and mangrove. It’s only for the adventurous; the road is often impassable with anything less than a 4WD – and difficult enough with one – there are no services along the way and some beaches feature strong rip tides. But it’s a fabulous glimpse of pristine tropics.
Other things to do include a ferry ride to Cozumel, an island off the coast of Playa del Carmen that offers fantastic snorkeling and diving; exploring the small villages along the coast; simply relaxing on the beautiful beaches or shopping in Tulum Pueblo.
What to buy.
Brightly colored woven wool blankets and embroidered traditional clothing; lapis lazuli, turquoise, coral and obsidian jewelry; pottery; talavera tile; carved stone items and, of course, T-shirts. The quality is superb and the prices are reasonable and always negotiable.
Tips
Bring good walking shoes, a flashlight, sun screen and bug repellent.
Bring cash – most places do not accept credit cards.
Quintana Roo has a lower crime rate than any major U.S. city, but travel smart and keep valuables securely stored.
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